Day 1 in Philly: Where the f- is the Liberty Bell and why is Independence Hall so small?
· I call Lea and Tad as I head out down Market Street. I really have forgotten how to be a city girl, because I’ve forgotten how difficult it is to have a conversation with buses, trolley cars, jackhammers, and people shouting as background noise. My conversation consists of a lot of, “What??” and “Mommy can’t hear you!”
· I stop in the world’s most depressing Kmart to buy a pair of knee highs to hopefully make my torture device shoes more bearable tomorrow. I have to search for about 10 minutes before I find the only pair that’s not Queen sized – do only plus-size people wear knee highs in Philadelphia?
· I continue down Market Street, which, I’m sad to say, is something of a dump. I mean, it’s not horrible, but it’s not great either. And where are all the restaurants? I’m hungry, and all I want is a nice little cafĂ©. Or sandwich shop. Or even any place that will sell me food.
· I walk and walk and walk, hoping to find something redeeming. At the same time, I’m becoming ever more aware of the change in my attitude since I was younger. When I went out to San Francisco after I graduated from Oberlin (to attend a conference), I walked all over the place by myself, regardless of whether it was day or night. I stayed in a hostel, talked to people at all hours of the night, and attended a dance party in the Union Square on the first night I was there. I walked to Chinatown and had several wonderful meals there by myself. I roamed and wandered without a care in the world (and got my wallet stolen in Haight-Ashbury, but that was due to my own negligence and, quite possibly, too much sangria). Now, here in Philly 13 years later, I want to finish my walk before it gets dark. I look cautiously at people from behind my sunglasses and don’t want to veer too far off the beaten path. Is it because I’m now older and wiser? Or just old?
· Despite my wariness, I keep walking because there HAS to be something that’s going to make this walk worthwhile, right? Also, I can’t bear the thought of traveling all the way to Philly and not really experiencing it. If I never leave the hotel, I might as well have traveled to Chicago. Or Boston. Or, god forbid, Detroit.
· I continue to walk, searching for something to grab my interest. Like maybe the Liberty Bell? Independence Hall? A Ben Franklin impersonator? Or even, do I dare hope, a restaurant??
· I see some green space and big buildings. Looks promising – except that it’s just a Visitor’s Center, and I don’t want to read about the things I should be seeing, I just want to see them. Plus, it’s closed.
· As I’m walking away from the Visitor’s Center, a clearly deluded (and potentially vision-impaired) man passes by, turns back, and says, “Hey there, beautiful.” I spend the next few minutes pondering how I feel about this. Do I feel objectified and degraded? (My Oberlin self wants to say “yes.”) Or do I just feel grateful that at 34, someone still notices? I decide I don’t want to think too hard about the answer to that question.
· Look – up ahead! It’s a bird! It’s a plane! It’s an honest-to-goodness historical landmark!!!
· Except when did Independence Hall get so small? I remember coming to Philadelphia when I was younger, and somehow it was nothing like the Philadelphia I’m experiencing now. I remember waterfronts, historic buildings, quaint buildings, a large, impressive Independence Hall. And the Liberty Bell. Now, Independence Hall looks dwarfed by the buildings around it. And it’s roped off – I can’t get in, because the only visible break in the ropes is clearly marked “EXIT” and is guarded by two security guards who look disinclined to break the rules for me. I suppose I could ask how to get in, but it’s getting late, and Independence Hall is so far not making me feel like it’s worth the effort. I do, however, walk around the other side (still no entrance) and look at the statue of Commodore Barry, the “father of the Navy.” He’s pointing at something. Commandingly. Could it be a restaurant?
· It appears to be an office building.
· Off to find the Liberty Bell. Or something historic. Or something edible.
· I keep seeing signs for the Liberty Bell. But where is it?
· Seriously, where the f*&^ is the Liberty Bell?
· I give up. Who wants to see a cracked bell anyway? (Note: In speaking with Tad later in the evening, he informs me that the Liberty Bell is in a separate building near Independence Hall. Apparently it’s liberty and justice for all as long as you can figure out how to get inside.)
· I wander back towards the hotel and happen upon Washington Square. Kind of nice – really the first thing that’s been pleasantly surprising. Lots of people, a guy doing yoga, babies playing, tourists, locals, yada, yada, yada. If I had more time, it would be a nice place to stop and sit for a while – but I’m really freaking hungry.
· I see Jeweler’s Row, which apparently is an example of early row houses. Neat, but I guess I’d be more interested if I was into jewelry. Plus, all the stores are closed, which means that the area loses some of its flavor.
· I wander back along Chestnut Street, which, all in all, is MUCH more appealing than Market Street. More quaint, calmer. Also, it appears to have restaurants.
· Except that all the cafes are closed – the only places that are open look like fancier, sit down types (like Morimoto’s, the Iron Chef’s restaurant). I just don’t feel like eating by myself in a fancy sit-down restaurant tonight. Plus I think they frown on flip-flops.
· I can’t take it. After walking up to my third closed deli, I stop at a Quiznos, where the guy preparing my vegetarian sub (no cheese, due to recently discovered lactose intolerance) looks at me like I have three heads. How do you have a sub without meat or cheese? I’m wondering the same thing myself as he prepares a sad piece of bread with lettuce, tomato, and a few wilted olives.
· On the way back, I pass by St. John’s Cathedral. I wish I could go in, because I actually really like churches. I’m not religious, but I love the symbolism, the iconography, the tradition. However, St. John’s is closed. It’s also dwarfed by office buildings all around, and right across the street is a large parking garage. It’s kind of smushed in among all these heinous buildings, and somehow its beauty is a bit shadowed by it.
· Back to the hotel, where I sit on my bed and eat my now cold Quiznos sub (not that it really matters) while watching M*A*S*H.
· I also check my in-room Visitor’s Guides, where it looks like there’s lots of cool stuff to do and places to see. I think Philly has a lot to offer – I just don’t think that I was able to find it by wandering. If I had more time and/or a plan, it might be different. Ah well, there’s always tomorrow.